Everyone's hot for Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic acid is hot right now.  Pretty much every beauty writer is promoting its benefits and you’ll see advertisements for all manner of skincare products, make up, even hair care.  Is it worth all the fuss?  Most definitely!  Let’s review.

What is Hyaluronic Acid?

Hyaluronic acid is a large sugar molecule cosmetic chemists refer to as a polysaccharide.  It presents as a liquid filler in our bodies and is a major component of connective tissue and skin.  Its No.1 claim to fame is that it can hold up to 1000 times its weight in water.  As such, our bodies use hyaluronic acid to hydrate tissues and lubricate joints.

Why is it important for my skin?

When our skin has a high moisture content, we look more youthful.  However, as we age our hyaluronic acid levels decrease.  The moisture content in our skin also decreases and we don’t look so fresh faced and firm anymore.  The loss of hyaluronic acid also means the skin is not able to repair itself as quickly.

The many faces of hyaluronic acid

Hyaluronic acid as an ingredient in skin care is not the same hyaluronic acid found in our skin.  If it was we’d be extracting this gel-like fluid from animals which we did do in the 1980’s when it first came on the scene.  It was originally sourced from umbilical cords and rooster combs!  Since 2010 it has been safely and humanely produced by a bacteria based bio-fermentation process.

There are 2 main types of hyaluronic acid, and to make matters more confusing, the names are used interchangeably and sometimes incorrectly.

1. Hyaluronic acid is the acid form and is also referred to as hyaluronan.  It’s mostly used in injectable fillers to plump up the skin.  It cannot be absorbed when applied to the skin which is where the 2nd type comes in.

2. Sodium hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid. Because it has a lower molecular size than pure hyaluronic acid, it can be absorbed when applied to the skin and is used mostly in cosmetic products.  The official ingredient listing INCI name for hyaluronic acid is sodium hyaluronate and is what you will see on the back product label.

How does hyaluronic acid work?

Because of its water loving properties, hyaluronic acid helps moisturise the skin in 2 ways:

1. Increases the moisture content by penetrating the skin and improving hydration levels.
2. Helps reduce water loss by binding water to the skin and providing an occlusive barrier.
   

Interestingly the molecular weight of the hyaluronic acid influences its effectiveness and how best to use:

• A lower molecular weight has a greater ability to penetrate and is best suited for dehydrated skin that lacks moisture content.
  
• A higher molecular weight binds water to the skin resulting in a plumper look and feel.

Whichever form is used, hyaluronic acid will help deliver firmer, smoother looking skin.

At Drift I use both low and high molecular weight hyaluronic acid in treatments and product that are individually formulated to meet your skin’s unique requirements.

Why not book in for a facial and trial your own hyaluronic acid formulation today.