Exfoliating your face on a regular basis is an important step in your skincare routine.
For the best results it's equally important to know what exfoliation can do, which products to choose and when is it best for you.
For the best results it's equally important to know what exfoliation can do, which products to choose and when is it best for you.
Why Exfoliate?
Our skin is constantly creating new skin cells. They travel from the lowest layer of the epidermis and move all the way to the top layer where they eventually shed off. This is to keep dead skin cells from building up.
As we age, this process slows down and the surface skin that we see and feel may start to look dull or feel rough because the dead skin cells don’t shed as quickly. A build up of dead skin cells (whether young or old) can also lead to excess oils being trapped in our pores where breakouts and congestion may occur.
Exfoliation - the removal of dead skin cells from the outermost layer of the skin - is giving the cell renewal process a helping hand to encourage new growth and keep our skin looking young, fresh and smooth.
As we age, this process slows down and the surface skin that we see and feel may start to look dull or feel rough because the dead skin cells don’t shed as quickly. A build up of dead skin cells (whether young or old) can also lead to excess oils being trapped in our pores where breakouts and congestion may occur.
Exfoliation - the removal of dead skin cells from the outermost layer of the skin - is giving the cell renewal process a helping hand to encourage new growth and keep our skin looking young, fresh and smooth.
How can I exfoliate?
Exfoliation can achieved either physically (i.e. brush, scrub) or chemically (application of product).
Physical Exfoliants
Let's start with the basics.
Let's start with the basics.
Face Cloth
Everyone should use a face cloth, no matter what your skin type. It gently exfoliates and removes all traces of product every time you wash your face. A 100% cotton cloth is fine. Choose muslin if your skin is more on the sensitive side.
Everyone should use a face cloth, no matter what your skin type. It gently exfoliates and removes all traces of product every time you wash your face. A 100% cotton cloth is fine. Choose muslin if your skin is more on the sensitive side.
| Scrubs Most scrubs are granular and naturally derived such as walnut shells, coffee grinds, bamboo, sugar however there are plastic microbeads too. I find most too large in size and scratch rather than exfoliate. They are best left for the body, rather than the face. What I do use are jojoba microbeads which are spherically shaped and made from jojoba oil. Because they are teeny-tiny, soft and with no harsh edges they are very gentle and can be used on sensitive skin. |  |
Brush
As in rotating or oscillating, clarisonic kind. I consider these a splurge, rather than a necessity. They are more effective at pore cleansing, but only marginally over a face cloth. The flip side is they can be irritating, especially if you have sensitive skin or suffer from lots of break outs. They are a nice treat for dry – normal skin once or twice a week, but I would not recommend every day.
As in rotating or oscillating, clarisonic kind. I consider these a splurge, rather than a necessity. They are more effective at pore cleansing, but only marginally over a face cloth. The flip side is they can be irritating, especially if you have sensitive skin or suffer from lots of break outs. They are a nice treat for dry – normal skin once or twice a week, but I would not recommend every day.
Chemical Exfoliants
There are 3 types of chemical exfoliants and each work in slightly different ways.
There are 3 types of chemical exfoliants and each work in slightly different ways.
AHAs
Alpha Hydroxy Acids are found in sugar (glycolic acid), fruits (citric & malic acid) and milk (lactic acid), although most used in skincare are synthetically derived. They work by loosening the skin cells which then leads to exfoliation. There are many types of AHA products available, but in order for this process to work, it must have a ph 3 – 4 and be left on the skin. They are also known to be irritating so are best reserved for sun damaged, fairly thick or non-sensitive skin.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids are found in sugar (glycolic acid), fruits (citric & malic acid) and milk (lactic acid), although most used in skincare are synthetically derived. They work by loosening the skin cells which then leads to exfoliation. There are many types of AHA products available, but in order for this process to work, it must have a ph 3 – 4 and be left on the skin. They are also known to be irritating so are best reserved for sun damaged, fairly thick or non-sensitive skin.
Enzymes
Most enzymes used in skincare are proteolytic enzymes that are found in papaya, pineapple and fungus. They work a little differently by dissolving the dead proteins and leaving the healthy stuff alone. Because they are digesting only the dead bits, enzyme products are a lot less irritating than AHAs. They are not ph dependent and only require water and a little heat to activate, making them an excellent exfoliating ingredient in cleansing products.
Most enzymes used in skincare are proteolytic enzymes that are found in papaya, pineapple and fungus. They work a little differently by dissolving the dead proteins and leaving the healthy stuff alone. Because they are digesting only the dead bits, enzyme products are a lot less irritating than AHAs. They are not ph dependent and only require water and a little heat to activate, making them an excellent exfoliating ingredient in cleansing products.
| BHA Salicylic acid is a Beta Hydroxy Acid that is synthetically derived. The white willow bark herb also contains salicylic properties and when used in skincare provides similar effects. BHA works differently again to AHAs and Enzymes. It helps break down congestion by penetrating the pore and breaking down oil and build up of dead skin cells. It is also known to reduce inflammation which makes salicylic acid excellent for oily, acne prone and sensitive skin. |  |
Which Product Should I Choose?
I’m not a fan of AHAs as I have seen more harm done than good. It is best reserved for really dry, sun damaged skin, with no sensitivity and you must not over use. AHAs need to be left on in order to work, so apply a serum or cream at night, not the day as it makes your skin photo sensitive too. Leave the full strength treatments to the professionals and know when to stop – like all good things, it too must end so you get to keep your fresh, rejuvenated skin.
| Oily, acne or sensitive skin – then a BHA is for you. Cleansers and leave on toners are best. If you don’t have oily or problem skin, then look to an enzyme based cleanser and incorporate a physical exfoliation as needed. And always use a face cloth. |  |
